Goring-pattern



(No Model.)

H. GOULD.

GORING PATTERN.

Patented OO'DF-IQJJFfi.

WTNEEEEE: INVENT 13 WW F gflaw UNITED STATES PATENT QEETQE.

HOLMAN GOULD, OF BROOKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

GORlNG-PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 390,664, dated October 9, 1888.

(No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, I-IoLMAN GOULD, of Brockton, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Goring-Patterns, of which the following is a specification.

This invention has for its object to enable elastic webbing to be cut into gorings for Congress gaiters or other styles of foot covering more expeditiously and economically than heretofore; and to this end it consists in a multiple pattern composed of a plurality of single goring-patterns, all connected in one general piece or part and adapted to be laid on a piece of webbing, and to guide the cutting-knife while a series of gorings are being out without being moved about on the webbing, as I will now proceed to describe.

Of the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, Figure 1 represents a view of a pattern embodying my invention laid upon a strip of webbing. Fig. 1 repre sents the goring cut by the pattern shown in Fig. 1. Figs. 2 and 3 represent patterns for different forms and styles of goring, but all embodying my invention. Fig. 2 represents the goring cut by the pattern shown in Fig. 2.

The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the figures.

In carrying out my invention I take apiece, a, of paper-board or other suitable material, such as is usually employed in making patterns by which to cut out parts of boots and shoes. In said piece I form slots or incisions b I), each extending from one edge of the piece partly, but not entirely, across the same, as shown. The slots are so formed and arranged as to convert the piece a into a series ofpatterns, 2 2 2, each of the form of a goring for a Congress gaiter or other shoe, and all connected by uncut portions of the piece a, so that the series of patterns are handled as one,and when laid upon a strip, d, of webbing cover enough of the webbing to make several gorings, and do not have to be moved until all the webbing covered by the multiple pattern is out into gorings by a knife held by the operator and guided by the edges of the connected patterns. The webbing is generally made in strips, the width of which is equal to the length of a goring. Heretofore the gorings have been cut by a pattern of the size of one goring, and said pattern has to be moved along and relocated on the webbing after the cutting of each goring. Gorings for Congress gaiters are usually formed, as shown in Fig. 1, widerat one end than at the other. In cutting this form of goring with the ordinary single pattern it is necessary to reverse the pattern after cutting each goring, so that the wider end of every alternate goring shall be at one edge of the strip. It will be seen therefore that in using the ordinary single pattern the operator has to spend a good deal of time in moving and adjusting his pattern, and as the pattern is small and does not present a long edge at its ends to guide the operator in placing it on the webbing there is liability of its being incorrectly placed, so that the lines that should be at right angles to the length of the strip of webbing will become slightly diagonal, and as the edge last cut becomes the guide forplacing the pattern for the next goring the error is liable to be perpetuated through all the gorings cut from that strip. My improved multiple pattern obviates this objection, because when once placed on the webbing-it does not require to be moved thereon until all the gorings which its patterns represent are cut.

The width of the piece a is greater than that of the webbing-strip, so that the slots bextend entirely across said strip, as shown in Fig. 1, and a pass of the cutting-knife through the entire length of a slot will carry the knife entirely' across the webbi ng-stri p.

I prefer to form guides on the ends of the piece a to aid the operator in placing the multiple pattern on the webbing. Said guides are shown as shoulders e 0, so arranged with reference to the inner ends of the slots 1) that when said shoulders coincide with one edge of the webbing the inner ends of the slots are outside of said edge, as indicated in Fig. 1.

In Fig. 2 I have shown a multiple pattern formed to cut gorings for the Prince Albert style of shoe, the goring cut by this pattern being shown in Fig. 2.

Fig. 3 shows another pattern formed to cut gorings with curved edges.

In cutting gorings by the patterns shown in Fig. 3 there is a slight waste of stock, which is not the casein cutting by the patterns shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

I prefer to apply metal bindings to the edges of the piece a and of the slots I), as shown.

I do notlimit myself to the forms of patterns shown in the drawings, but may make the patterns of any form into which webbing may be out. For example, the patterns may be formed to cut rectangular gores, or gores which are straight at one end and curved at the other, or gores formed as shown in Beals patent, No. 264,608, Septemberltl, 1882.

The pattern may be made entirely of sheet metal or entirely of paper-board, or of both sheet metal and paper-board in layers. When made of paper-board, it may be bound with metal or not, as may be preferred.

I claim- 1. The improved multiple goring-pattern herein described, composed of a flat piece of material having slots which partially subdivide the piece into a plurality of patterns separated by said slots, each of which forms edges of two patterns and a guide for a cutting-knife, so that a series of gorings may be cut by moving a knife through said slots at one adjust ment of the pattern, as set forth.

2. The multiple goring'pattern herein described, composed of a single piece, a, having slots 2) extending from one edge partly across said piece and constituting the edges of the individual patterns, as set forth.

3. The multiple goring-pattern herein described, composed of a plurality of connected patterns, each of tapering form, arranged with their wider and narrower ends alternating, as set forth.

4. The multiple goring-pattern herein described, composed of a piece, (0, having slots 6 extending from one edge partly across the piece, and guides, as e c, at its ends arranged, as described, relatively to the inner ends of said slots.

5. The multiple goring-pattern herein described, composed of a piece, 61-, having slots b extending from one edge partly across the piece, and a metallic binding applied to the edges of the piece and its slots, as set forth.

In testimony whereoiI have signed my name to this specification,in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses, this 1st day of November, A. D. 1887.

IIOLM A N GOULD.

\Vi tnesses:

BENJ. It. CHAPMAN, LoYEn E. CHAMBERLAIN. 

